SPF, PA+++, Broad Spectrum labels - what do they mean?

Sunscreen is an essential step in our daily skincare routine before stepping out of the house.

But.

What do we really know about "sunscreen"?

I always noticed how the labels on sunscreen bottles / make-up base products stating "SPF 30 PA+++" etc. And I feel secure buying product that are labelled with SPF & PA +++ labels cos basically, that means protection for UVA & UVB - that's enough information to make me feel secure.

THEN recently, I started spotting "new" labels that indicate

"SPF 30" and  "PA+++" and  "Broad Spectrum" all at once!

So, what do they really mean? (I try not to question too much as I am not an aspiring cosmetic scientist or anything like that, but couldn't help it!)

The best answer I got when I asked around was:

"It means it covers/protects you from a broad-er spectrum of light." or
"It protects you from UVA and UVB."

Frankly - I don't quite get it. Then why do they need to indicate "Broad Spectrum" if it was really just the same function as a PA+++ value?

Maybe I am too dense, but I think there MUST be a better explanation to what these labels mean.

Hence, my quest begun!

In short, this product featuring all 3 labels means it has UVA and UVB protection (possibly even some UVC protection, though UVC supposedly doesn't reach earth atmosphere)

"PA+++" being graded by Japanese system for Sun Protection, while "Broad Spectrum"being graded by the U.S FDA (U.S Food and Drug Administration).

In long - read on..

Because I was curious and have done a fair bit of research on the different labels, (which I thought is pretty interesting and enlightening!) I just wanted to summarize all the sources added together (in details) with a tad of "personal touch".

We all know that the Sun causes us sunburns and premature aging - hence, applying SPF is an important routine before stepping out of the house. And - that is about all we know. (At least that WAS all I knew before this!) 

UVA, B, C ; The Light Spectrum ; What are these?!

In order to understand these labels and how much of these stuff is necessary,  it is important to first know about the "light spectrum". 

I combined 2 images from 2 different sources and added in my own text in blue to explain.

Image Source1 . Image Source 2

The shorter the wavelength, the more powerful it is and the shorter distance it can travel.

Think X-ray VS Radio frequency - we all know X-ray is super powerful, but you must be in a close proximity for it to reach you, yet on the other end, radio frequency are non-harmful and can travel long-long-long distances!

Visible light - (as we can all recognize when we see one) is a rainbow spectrum of 7 different colors. That is called "visible light", it's not harmful, ending with violet light.

So right before that comes Ultra Violet Light aka UV ray - yes - your UVA, UVB, UVC rays that burns and age your skin.

Each of it's "detrimental" function.

UVA - Causes major skin aging & wrinkling; Penetrates more deeply into the skin than UVB; Penetrates clouds & glass. (There's even UVA I and UVA II, read more here)

UVB - Causes sunburn; Does not significantly penetrate glass.

UVC - Most harmful as it can cause blindness & cancer; Thank God it is blocked by the Ozone layer.

(That's why we need to care about the environment and prevent Ozone depletion!)

So, What is SPF?

- SPF = Sun Protection Factor = Protection from UVB (Sun burns) NOT UVA.

The SPF number determines 2 things:

(1) Estimated length of time before you get burn;

(2) How much UVB rays are being blocked.

I tabulated the below charts to make it easier for understanding. 

POINT (1) Estimated length of time, and this is really just an estimate!

POINT (2 )How much UVB rays are you really protected from?

 

References:

Source from Skin Cancer Website Part 1, Part 2, Part 3

Source from Coola Suncare
Source from Badger Balm Badger Balm

Source from American Academy of Dermatology

What about PA+ or ++ or +++?

- PA measures protection against UVA

(which is why SPF & PA are often paired together to protect against both UVA & B.)

- "PA" means The Protection Grade of UVA - which is a Japanese system of measuring Sun protection from UVA that is based on PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) reaction reading which measures the "persistent darkening" of skin under UVA radiation. 

e.g. A PPD rating 10 technically allows one to be under UVA exposure 10 times more than someone with none! So, PPD 2-4 means 2 to 4 times more exposure than someone with none, and so on...

- PA+ measures PPD 2-4 

- PA++ measures PPD 4-8 

- PA +++ measures PPD 8 and above

(up to 4+s now) being the highest level of protection

References:

Source from Wiki

Source from Badger Balm

What about the term "Broad Spectrum"?

- Term used - to mean it measures protection against a "broad spectrum" of UV rays (namely UVA & B)

- Since 2012, FDA (U.S Food & Drug Administration) has established a standard broad spectrum UV test which determines if  a product is allowed to be labelled as "Broad Spectrum". Only products that pass this test can carry this label.

- So "Broad Spectrum" means this product provides both UVA & B protection with a certain percentage of the product's total protection being against UVA.

References:

Source from FDA 

IN CONCLUSION!

Truth #1

Though, SPF does kinda measure the length of time before you get sun burned, it is not meant to determine the duration of exposure because, the "estimated amount of time" you take before you get burn is really just an estimate. 

You may get burn even before you notice it, so use the formula as "a rough guide" 

Truth #2

The increase in SPF number doesn't give you the same increase in its level of protection.
(i.e. Just because SPF 10 gives you 90% protection doesn't mean SPF 20 is going to give you 180% protection - it doesn't work that way.)

Truth #3
Wearing a coat of SPF of 10 first and then wearing a coat of foundation of SPF 20 does not mean you have coverage of SPF 30. Don't assume it works that way.

Truth #4

Don't think that you don't need to apply SPF just because you are staying indoors because UVA can well penetrate glass and reach you, even when you are indoors.

So, if you really want to be protected,  

1. Get an SPF with PA+(s) OR Broad Spectrum Labels (they both basically goes to imply the product has UVA protection) to ensure you have both UVA & B protection.

2. Reapply SPF every 2 hours (even if you are using SPF 50 - they do wear out, depending on your activities)

3. Apply your SPF properly with 2.2mg/cm² of skin (about 1/4 to 1/3 of a teaspoon for an adult face - you need to "cover" your face evenly to get "coverage" yo.)

4. Apply it and allow 30 mins before sun exposure

5. Be more shade-conscious especially between 10am - 4pm

Garnier Instant Fairness BB Moisturizer / BB Cream

Even when I was in Melaka, I remained a Watson fan. -_- Why is there always something in there for me to buy?!

Though I wasn't specifically looking out for a BB cream, somehow, this Garnier BB Cream struck me.

I have always preferred to go light on the application of foundation because I really dislike wacking a thick layer of "paint" over my face.

And so, my choices are always sheer coverage liquid foundations or BB creams that are light-weight on the skin - yet with buildable coverage, so I can easily add some more over areas which need more coverage.

The Product

This cost about 6 SGD. Claims to give instant fairness and all that. (Read it below!)

 

The first thing that caught my eye was the fact that this is a BB moisturizer and yet like a BB cream. Being a sucker for lightweight foundations, this was IT!

It was almost as if I did not process the fact that it focuses on "instant fairness". That part of the message only struck me after I bought this. But, the thing is, I DO NOT WANT to look "instantly fair"!

I cannot imagine why people would want to look fair on the face when the rest of the body remains the same shade. Aren't you gonna look like a reverse match stick?

And yet, I failed to recognize that "instant fairness" part and focused instead of the below 10 points which made me part with my 6 bucks. (it's still money ok!)

 

As if the 10 points ain't enough, it is:

UVA/UVB protection!

Oil-Free!

Won't clog pores!

OK - instantly sold.

 Testing begins...

It is indeed light-weight, with medium consistency in texture that is easily spreadable.

It doesn't "sip" into the "winkles" of the skin (lines on the inside of the wrist).

Some foundations do have great coverage but they totally amplify those lines on the inside of the wrist.
 Imagine all your wrinkles becoming more obvious - I don't think anyone wants that!

And now, the moment of truth.

I hate taking such close-ups of my own skin, it just reminds me of annoying orange. bleh.

Not gonna "extra-large" this picture.

My Verdict

I guess this picture speaks for itself. I didn't do any photoshop on this. 

It sure looks "instantly fairer" plus the other 10 points it promised to deliver. 

I mean, my pores are still there (obviously!) but, they ARE less visible. And the reddish pigments DID look less obvious. 

For a light-weight product that offers sheer coverage, I have to agree this Garnier one is pretty worth a try.

(Warning there was another Garnier BB cream which was targeted at oil control then, but when I tested it on my hand, I found the finishing a tad too thick for my liking, seems pretty much like it will amplify all the pores instead. So I dropped that - do make sure you TEST the product before buying it!)

To close this entry, for whatever reasons, I came back to Singapore and headed to Watsons again...

This time, I found this - I bet it is the exact same thing, but just in a different packaging  Just so you know which to try!

Anna Sui 2014 Spring II Collection - Base Makeup & Lip Colors!

Cute and girly yet with such sophistication and glamour! It brings out the little "princess" in every girl - or at least most girls!

This time, I am featuring the

Anna Sui 2014 Spring II Collection!

*All are Limited Edition!*

Top left to right:
Protective Loose Powder #001
Loose Compact Powder #300
Loose Compact Powder #301

Bottom left to right:
Limited Edition Lipstick in #01, 02, 03 respectively
Limited Edition Pore Smoothing Primer

Ain't the packaging of this collection vintage, with a touch of old-world glamour? This is definitely one of the selling points for Anns Sui's make-up!

Let's talk about the Pore Smoothing Primer 1st!

 

 

Look at the effect this pore-smoothing primer has!

And this is without any photo editing or change in lighting color whatever!

It has so effectively concealed my humongous pores and I am super impressed with it!

I know, at this point, I found the word "dimethicone" and whatever "xyz"-cone ingredient really annoying! Like applying such stuff on my face is gonna make my skin go into a coma!

And so, I went to research a little more on this dimethicone thing and here is what I found:

Fact #1
Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer are flexible silicon polymers consisting of dimethicone copolymers that are linked together.

Fact #2
Used in cosmetics & personal care products i.e. deodorants, makeup, skin & haircare.
Because they function as a viscosity increasing agent, dispersing agent, an emulsion stabilizer.

Fact #3
The scientific truth is - they are large molecules that are not soluable in water and its safety has been established by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel.

If you are still in doubt - please visit this source for the detailed report & links.

And if you are still, still in doubt about this "dimethicone" thing (like I was too!), please visit this other source, which I found alot of reliable information from!

Now, let's move on to the Loose Powder

& Compact Loose Powder!

 

I must first highlight how much I like the packaging of this Compact Loose Powder.

When translucent base makeup first came into the picture some years ago - I always wished I could just bring my loose powder out with me for touch ups instead of using a compact powder (as a compact powder almost-always! has pretty matt and heavy coverage, which was the opposite of what I wanted), yet the loose powder(s) are always so loose that they spill all.over.the.place and are often too messy, too bulky and too inconvenient to bring along when I go out!

But lo & behold - THIS - is a Loose Powder in a COMPACT form - it is a genius design because it has this rubbery mesh that holds all the loose powder in its place. Even when you tilt the casing upside-down, it will NOT spill out.

All you need to do is to simply press your puff into the mesh and the right amount of powder will disperse unto the puff ready for quick touchups!

Just enough touchup powder to blot the shine, keep the translucency and prevent the makeup from getting too cakey ot matt.

What's cool is - they have SPF protection as well, so you can be assured of touching-up your SPF whilst you touchup your makeup!

Loose Compact Powder #300 has this baby pink tone to it. No glittering or shimmery or pearly powder particles in there - just a matt, finely dusted powder that is more translucent in color, enhancing the skin tone to look brighter and healthier. 

 

Loose Compact Powder #301 has this apricot pink, tone to it; like pastel coral? Contains s bit or coral peach shimmer and pearl powder particles in there - so it comes out really radiant and natural. Also enhances the skin tone to look brighter and healthier. 

 

Between the 2 - I thought I would have preferred the #300, the baby pink one since I have an oily T-zone and dont' need more "radiance". But having tried both - I really liked the effect of #301, the apricot pink one instead!

It seems to enhance my skin tone much better than the baby pink one and hence I have concluded 2 key points:

1. Always test the product on your face to see the effect because what you see in the casing ain't what you're getting on your face!
2. Always be open to options - don't simply assume that "pearl powder" is going to enhance oiliness. It may very well NOT be true!

I would suggest #300 for prople who tend to be fairer since it has this baby pink touch and can appear too ashy and pale for anyone darker.

Protective Loose Powder #001



 

Now, this Protective Loose Powder is very much like what its name suggests - it has SPF of 25 PA++, is light-weight, like a thin veil and has a silky application.

 

In summary, here is a close up of the 3 powders:

 

From left, Protective Loose Powder, Compact Loose Powder #300, Compact Loose Powder #301.

 

See the color difference now?

 

And lastly, let's look at the lips!

From the left - Limited Edition Lipstick in #01, 02, 03

All 3 colors are impressive & natural - seems like the coral-pinks are really "IN" this season.

#01 is more of a pinkish glossy finish; #02 is a mix of pink-coral with a glossy finish as well; #03 is more of a vivid coral tone

The lipsticks has high moisturising factors with the use of hydrating ingredients like the Rose Canina Fruit Extract, Grape Seed Oil & Olive Oil. Sounds yummy!

 

 

I can't put a finger to my most preferred one here cos they all seem to match different moods!

 

Enough said! For a real experience, head done to any of the Anna Sui counters located at Takashimaya or Isetan and try ti our personally!

 

Cheers & signing out!

 

 

 

Experiencing GLAM GLOW - supermud & youthmud!

When people around me first talked about "Glam Glow" - I went like "Ok. The name already sounds like a marketing project - Product must be expensive and... so-so". -_-

And although they raved about it, and kept going on-and-on-and-on about it, I was unconvinced.

But. (There's a "but")

A kind colleague of mine decided to pass me some samples (just 1-time use) to test it out. And dang!

I was sold. *sigh* 

I am on a budget. Seriously!

There are 2 products here:
1. Supermud (white tub): In summary, it deals with pores, problem skin, blemishes, pimples, breakouts, zits, black & white heads, razor bumps, in-grown-hair!

2. Youthmud (black tub): In summary, this will give you an instant camera-ready, glowing skin - so it exfoliates dead skin cells to reveal radiant & younger-looking skin.

Well, my summaries are truly short & precise, but I have taken pictures of the products to give you a full-monty of the product, the ingredients, benefits ETC. (if you want to read!)

This is what happens when a dermatologist & chemist creates a product = theories, words, lab tests & recordings.

It's too precious to not indicate them in the product description, right? Or is it all about marketing? -_-
 

Let's talk about Glam Glow, Supermud!

 Read-it-yourself :P

It is alot of read isn't it? 

But, there is more!

 

TESTING BEGINS! 

 On cleansed face, take enough of the mud and apply it to the entire face. 

Although I read that you could do a spot-treatment on one-targeted treatment with this, I still went ahead for a full face treatment since I had combination skin with pores, black & white heads what-nots to deal with.

The texture was easily spreadable and there was this slight minty scent to it. (Must have been the Eucalyptus Leaf, Herbs and Peppermints there!)

The below images speaks for itself.

There was a slight tingly, stinging sensation upon application (must be the acid!), but it's definitely bearable & not overly painful, just very slightly.

It starts hardening in less than 5 mins, and you start seeing parts of your face looking like "volcano-man" with uneven grey tones all over.

Then the sensation becomes tight and the mask hardens showing random spots that looks as if the mud "dissolved" the black heads.

After 15 mins, wash it off. Contrary to how it looks, the mud was easily rinsed out by water and there was a nice soft touch to the skin. Unlike some other masks, which either leaves the skin feeling overly-cleansed with a tight sensation, or under-cleansed with a greasy sensation, this left a smooth, watery sensation over the entire face.

Unfortunately, I did not take an after-mask picture here, but the effect was "WO-WAH"! I could clearly see my skin glow!

At first, I was wondering how do/why would people comment about a glow after washing their skin? Isn't it a given?

Whenever the make-up and oil is all washed away at the end of the day, your skin is gonna look fresh and non-oily, isn't it?

BUT. This glow I am talking about is MORE THAN just that fresh, non-oily feeling. It was an overall radiance and balance that I have not seen in a while.

Best part was, when I woke up the next morning and still see that glow, without excess sebum spotted! #2 "WO-WAH!"

The make-up application was smooth and adhered so well! And the #3 "WO-WAH" was when I noticed how balanced my skin was (not shiny, not overly matt). I didn't have to blot my face till well-after lunch (usually I need blotting every 2 hours).

"WO-WAH!""WO-WAH!""WO-WAH!""WO-WAH!" was when random colleagues approach me as said, "Hey, did you do something? Your skin looks more radiant today."

No kidding.

And no exaggeration - remember? I am on a budget and I was suppose to be UNCONVINCED.

But, ironically, I was SO CONVINCED that I made a mental note to BUY IT. Mental note #2, take pictures!

Now, about Glam Glow Youthmud!

 Read somemore :P

 

TESTING BEGINS!

Similarly, on cleansed face, take enough of the mud and apply it to the entire face.

Youthmud is slightly less grey and has a more liquid & grainy consistency than Supermud. But it was also easily spreadable.

The scent was definitely stronger - minty too, but more intense (perhaps Lavender?)

Look that that amulet smack in the middle of my forehead?!

Upon application, there was a much stronger tingly, stinging sensation as compared to Supermud. And I thought acid was already the limit. It stings and kinda feels like tiny needles poking into your face - then slowly, the sensation turns into a minty-feeling (almost similar to when you pop a super "hot" mint into your mouth).

Again, it starts hardening in less than 5 mins, and in 10 mins, you are officially "ash-man".

As the mask hardens it tightens your skin.

After 15 mins, wash it off.

This time, I rinsed the mask out but applying just a little water in circular motion. It slowly dissolves to form sort of a grainy exfoliating wash. Though grainy, it was gentle on the skin and easily rinsed out.

Again, there was a nice soft touch to the skin. No over-cleansed feeling, NO under-cleansed feeling. Just right!

And there I have it.

This glow I was referring to!


This effect was similar to that of the Supermud on me. And I liked that it lasted well through till the next morning!

I just applied a thin layer of sleeping mask after each of this "test" and went to bed.


The not so best part for Youthmud (for me) was that, although make-up application was smooth and adhered well, the skin balance didn't last.

By the 3rd hour, I spotted rays of sunshine perform it's shiny magic on my "highly-favored" T-zone and I needed to BLOT. dang.

MY VERDICT!

With such a big mouthful of promise in its advertising message, I was pretty skeptical about this whole "Glam Glow" thing.

But, I am really glad to have tried it and learn how it DID work wonders for me - referring to the Supermud.

Though it WAS COSTLY ($92 SDG for 50ml, Supermud), I think it was well-worth the price (of course the plus point IS that it's proven clinically & scientifically.)

I heard Supermud was a miracle spot-treatment for zits, you just need to dot it on zits and leave it overnight and the zit diminishes by the next day. But I have yet to try it.

Next time, I will just apply it on targeted areas like the T-zone & U-zone instead as these ARE the key-shine areas).

Also, I heard colleagues of mine swearing by Youthmud instead (but they have more normal to dry skin).

Well, I guess different skin types require different attention, so buy, but buy wisely!

Cheers!

What you have doesn't make you who you are.
And what you don't, doesn't make you any less!
#cheokletquoted